Ever Heard of a “Discontinuous” Still?
My understanding is that there are basically two kinds of heat distillation (cold distillation like that used to make applejack is another method:
1.Continuous also known as column stills. Continuous means the system cycles product through the columns for a continuous stream of output.
2. Alembic or pot stills, which are used for batch distillation. In this method spirits are produced in batches, the heads and tails are discarded and the “heart” of the distillate is used for the final product. Output is of course in batches. (That’s Johnny Shuler, Master Distiller at Pisco Porton by some classic cognac stills imported from France.)
There are pros and cons for each of these methods and I’m not going to go into that here…I bet everyone who reads this column knows them already.
But this “discontinuous” thing is bugging me. I reached out to friends Shelley Alger at Cleargrape who kindly forwarded me source material from INDECOPI, the Peruvian agency that looks after intellectual property, and writer Greg Dicum who wrote “The Pisco Book” which should be coming out soon. My supposition is that it probably stems from a bad translation of some Spanish word in some regulation and then got included and reused in other references.
My problem with the word is that it presupposes the standard is a continuous still. In reality the original still design is the alembic which goes back to the Alchemists in the Middle Ages and the Arab discovery of distillation before that. It’s sort of like us calling a car a “horseless carriage”. That’s an anachronism, but a discontinuous still is just plain wrong.
I would like to know if anyone has seen the use of “discontinuous” still in any other references? And does it bug anyone else?
Schedule of upcoming U.S. Wine and Spirit Events and Tasting Competitions
Boston Wine Expo
Jan.22-23 2011, Boston, MA
http://www.wine-expos.com/boston/
Vino2011
Jan 24-26, Waldorf-Astoria, NY
http://www.italtrade.com/index.htm
NY Wine Expo: Feb.26-28 at the Jacob Javitz Center
http://www.wine-expos.com/wine/ny/
San Francisco Spirits Competition, entries due Feb. 19, event Mar. 13,14
http://www.sfspiritscomp.com/
South Beach Wine and Food Festival Event Feb. 25-28, 2010
http://www.sobewineandfoodfest.com/2010/
New York International Wine and Spirits Awards Judging takes place week of June 13, Deadline for entries May 31.
www.nyispiritsawards.com and www.nyiwineawards.com
San Francisco Wine Competition, entries due May 28, event June 18, 19
http://www.sfwinecomp.com/
Ultimate Beverage Challenge:
These are three new events organized by Paul Pacult and David Talbot (formerly of Wine Enthusiast) which split from the SFWSC. They represent a new concept in spirit review methodologies and also a new contest specifically dedicated not just to spirits but the cocktails that are made with them.
Main site: http://www.ultimate-beverage.com/
1. Ultimate Spirit Challenge (judging takes place March 1-4 in NY, and Ultimate Cocktail Challenge (judging takes place April 12-14 at Astor Center in NY but entry deadline is Feb. 18, 2011.
2. Ultimate Wine Challenge Deadline for entries April 22, 2011, Event May 2-6, New York
3. Ultimate Cocktail Challenge: event April 5-8 at Astor Center, deadline March. 22, 2011
Beverage Testing Institute:
BTI conducts a series of tastings of both wine and spirits throughout the year as well as a value wine competition and packaging competitions for spirits as well as wine. It’s the tasting competition that made Grey Goose famous.
1. BTI Wine competition deadlines by category, country of origin:
http://www.tastings.com/Download_Forms/2010_BTI_Wine_Schedule.pdf
Key dates: South America Jan 15th; Australia and New Zealand Feb. 1; Canada, Africa, Middle East, Eastern Europe and Mexico Mar 1; Kosher April 1; France and Italy still wines May 1; Portugal, Spain, Australia, New Zealand and all international sparklers, June 1; World Value Wines Aug. 6; Greece, Germany and Austria Sept. 1, South America, Africa and Middle East Oct. 1, France, Italy, Asia Nov. 1; Portugal and Spain including Port and Sherry Dec. 1; Packaging comp Dec. 18.
2. BTI International Review of Spirits competitions by category:
Click to access 2010_IRS_Schedule.pdf
Key dates: Brandy, Mar. 1; Whiskey April 1; Gin May 1, Tequila and Mescal July 1; Liqueurs Aug. 1, Vodka Sept. 1, Eau de Vie and Specialties Oct. 1., Packaging Dec. 1
Wine and Spirits Wholesaler Assn.
April 10-13, 2011, Orlando FL. This used to be an “old boy networking” event but has evolved in the last few years to be more egalitarian. The exhibit floor used to be a minor adjunct but now has become much more significant. It’s not the answer for exporters looking to find importers in the U.S., but it’s a good start.
Manhattan Cocktail Classic
May 13-17, 2011 in New York.
http://manhattancocktailclassic.com/
Aspen Food and Wine Classic
This event is an interesting blend of consumer and trade participants, but you have to be an advertiser in Food and Wine Magazine to be an exhibitor. Aspen, CO, June 17-19, 2011.
http://www.foodandwine.com/classic-in-aspen/
American Wine Bloggers Conference
July 22-24, Charlottesville, WV. Major gathering of citizen wine bloggers in the US, attracts a fair number of winery exhibitors
http://winebloggersconference.org/america/
Bar and Wine Show
Formerly the NY Bar Show, June 28/29, 2011, Jacob Javitz Center NY
www.thebarandwineshow.com
Fancy Food Show
Event dates Winter show: San Francisco, Jan 16-18, 2011, Summer showWashington DC, July 10-12
http://www.specialtyfood.com/do/fancyFoodShow/LocationsAndDates
Tales of the Cocktail
Tales is the Grand-daddy of cocktail events and the one that defined and democratized spirits well before social media became cool. Everybody in the business attends and it’s a very unique event for both networking and learning. July 20-24, 2011 New Orleans
Newport Winefest
Aug. 20-22, Newport Rhode Island. This is the event’s inaugural year and we’re told it will be a biggy…anyone wanting to make a splash with consumers in New England/NY needs to be an exhibitor.
European Wine Bloggers Conference
In 2011 will be held in Franciacorta, Italy Oct. 14-16, 2011 The event is organized by Ryan and Gabriella Opaz of Catavino.com and deserve lots of applause for conceiving of and managing this event.
http://winebloggersconference.org/europe/
Miami International Wine Fair
Oct. 2011
http://www.miamiwinefair.com/
Well, it seemed like a good idea at the time…
So what did we find out? We did in fact prove that copper makes better egg white foam in a Pisco Sour…when you make it without the lime. We also find out that contrary to what we had read, Lime doesn’t help , in fact just the opposite.
Here’s the process we used…the recipe was of 2 ounces of Pisco Porton (from my private stash handcrafted by the inimitable Johnny Schuler), 1 ounce of fresh-squeezed lime juice, 1 ounce of simple syrup (1:1 concentration) and three drops of bitters on the foam.
Method 1 was a steel one-piece shaker loaded with a handful of copper plumbing fixtures.
Method 2 was the same recipe using a traditional Boston Shaker.
(For one set of the tests we also tried whisking the mixture in a copper bowl which just made a big mess.)
Results…disappointingly, they were very comparable in terms of amount of foam and stability (I can’t tell you how long it lasted because we drank the samples…hey, I’m just saying!)
Then we decided to isolate one of the variables. So we did it a couple of times with the same two methods but without the lime and found that we ended up with much better foaming properties for the copper fitting method…we could even create little peaks in the foam.
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Better foam with the copper, but without the lime. |
When lime was used we couldn’t reproduce that. So while that absolutely trustworthy resource Wikipedia said that you can duplicate the effect of whipping egg whites in copper by using citric acid from a lemon, or using cream of tarter (potassium bitartrate), in our tests, we were not able to reproduce those results.
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You can see the difference in texture with the copper. |
OK, so using copper fittings isn’t necessarily a commercial solution, but Fred Yarm suggested we try copper scrubbing pads, which we’ll do tomorrow…more surface area in contact with the egg, less fracturing of the ice which led to somewhat watered down drinks. then I’m going to go on the hunt for a copper lined shaker…anyone know of a source?
Optimizing Egg White Foam in a Pisco Sour
The idea occurred to my daughter Lindsay and me when she was making a birthday cake for my wife. Why do cooks whip egg whites in copper pots? My first stop was a query to Darcy O’Neil, of Art of Drink fame, drink chemistry guru and author of the definitive book on soda fountains titled Fix the Pumps. His answers combined with a little digging in the literature surfaced the chemistry behind it. There are basically two factors at work here, one physical, and one chemical. The physical whisking folds air into the albumen creating the foam. But it also unravels some of the amino acid molecules “opening them up” to combine with the air and water. When you whip in copper, the physical contact with the whisk frees up some copper ions that combine with the sulphur in eggs to make those unraveled amino acid bonds with water and air much more stable…yielding a more stable foam.
So the next question was, how come we don’t use copper lined shakers in bars that make drinks with egg whites as an ingredient like the Pisco Sour, Ramos Gin Fizz et al.?
Darcy didn’t have an answer to that one, nor a source for copper-lined shakers, though he did suggest testing the theory with copper ball bearings, the thought being ice may not be hard enough in a shaker to release the copper ions. (and a suggestion to use a solid metal shaker rather than a Boston Shaker!)
Two other alternative methods that improve foam stability are to add an acid (citric acid from the limes in the recipe may already be maximizing the foam),and cream of tartar which also lowers the pH.
So we’re going to do some experimenting and determine whether or not we can use this copper/egg white interaction to make a better Pisco Sour. Not having access to copper ball bearings, I’m thinking I’ll stop by the hardware store for some copper plumbing fittings and a micrometer and stop watch to measure foam height and stablility.
Stay tuned…more to come.
You Want Me to Do WHAT????
Hi Steven,
Please let me know if you are able to cover or feature the following. Digipower is officially announcing today two of their coolest products to hit the tech accessories market called the “Jumpstart” and the “Jumpstart Sport”.
Subject: Advertising and PR
I’m writing to ask,
Unique pageviews?! never heard of that metric. That’s sort of like a question I got some years about about this “Mapster” thing….they got the concept, but are a little sketchy on the specifics.
Now that’s relevant content!
Notes from the EWBC, PR folks, Please Get a Clue!
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“Generic” or Country Wine Trade Promotion Group Panel at EWBC. Willi Klinger of Austria on the left, Michael Cox of Wines of Chile/UK 2nd from right. |
European Wine Bloggers Conference

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17 Students from the Burgundy School of Business attended the conference under the able leadership of Damien Wilson, MW |
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Keynote Speaker Elin McCoy |
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Damien Wilson, MW, Director of Burgundy School of Business Wine Dept. |
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Michael Cox and Juan Somavia of Wines of Chile bustin’ moves in Vienna |
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What would a party in Vienna be without a Waltz? |
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Willi Klinger of Austrian Wine Marketing Board leading a technical tasting |
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Gabrielle Savage of The Drinks Business (I think she looks like Jodi Foster!) |
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AWMB Social Media Team at the EWBC…in the middle is Susanne Staggl who honcho’d the crew at the conference. Danke Susanne! |
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Steve Raye, Stevie Kim of Veronafiere/Vinitaly and Giampiero Nadali of Aristede |
US Drinks Conference Distributor Panel
o Come to the distributor with the flexibility that allows them to help shape the idea /be willing to listen to and respond to distributor advice
US Drinks Conference
I’ll be making a series of posts on the USDC, but thought I’d get some of the early pix up in the meantime. A big shout out of thanks to Denise Menefee for being the unrelenting driving force that made the conference a success. She’s pictured here with husband Jeff who managed all the graphics for us.
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Me and daughter Lindsay Raye |
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Carter Reum of VeeV Acai Spirit |
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Colleen Graham of cocktails.About.com |
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Tyler Colman, aka Dr. Vino |
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Jeff Grindrod, Gary Vaynerchuk, Steve Raye |
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Conf. Organizers: John Beaudette of MHW, Mike Ginely of Next Level, Denise Menefee of USDC, Steve Raye and Jeff Grindrod of Brand Action Team |
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Social media panel: Tyler Colman, Christian McMahon of Heineken USA, Colleen Graham, Carter Reum, me |
USDC on CNBC
The U.S. Drinks Conference 2010 kicks off today. We’re at a bigger venue this year but still will pack the room with an SRO crowd of 200+ from 14 countries.
We’re especially pleased that CNBC will be covering the conference this year with a film crew working with business reporter Brian Schactman.
I spoke with Gary Vaynerchuk yesterday and he’s pumped for his presentation at 9:30. It will be a challenge to follow him, but our social media panel has some major street cred with Tyler Colman aka Dr. Vino, Colleen Graham of About.com, Christian McMahon CMO of Heinken USA and Carter Reum, founder of VeeV Acai spirit.
I’ll try to post more on Twitter during the day, follow me at stevenraye.